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Routes in Ireland

Belfast Breakfast S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corned Beef and Thrash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gingers Welcome S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Halfpint S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hanging Harps S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irish Inche S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irish Scream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kiss It S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Luckily Unlucky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Over the Clover S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pain & A Dirty Glass S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pub Crawl [Var], The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Public Enemy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Public Hanging (Red-tagged project... until my foot heals ) S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
RICE Pudding S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Secret In The Cellar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Souless Ginger S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Special Brew S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Triple Stout S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tullamore Dew S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey on Sunday S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: JWodraska, JBaker, June 2016
Page Views: 420 total, 24/month
Shared By: jbak on Jun 19, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This unusual little route may be the steepest 5.10 on the mountain. 3 overhangs separated by overlaps with full recovery rests mean the climbing is somewhat strenuous but not pumpy.

RICE = Rest, Ice, Compression, Elevation... what my climbing buddy/MD recommended for my recently F'ed-up knee.

Location

Starts on the slab to the right of THE PUB. 3 bolts on the slab get you up to the keeper bolt at the start of the first overhang.

Protection

11 bolts plus Mussys.

Short QDs are a bad idea on this route...they'll only buy you rope drag. But then short QDs are a bad idea in general.

AND...probably a good idea to CHAIN 2 DRAWS TOGETHER at the keeper bolt (4th bolt...on big block before the steepness starts) to avoid rope drag.

Photos

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jbak
 
jbak  
 
It's worth noting that both Rice Pudding and my new project to the right are deceptively over-hanging. If someone pulls off a hold, people lounging on the ground at the start of the slab ARE IN THE FALL LINE. It doesn't look quite that steep, but it is. Sep 5, 2016
Myk BROWN
tucson, az
Myk BROWN   tucson, az
Super fun climb. Thought John was dreaming when he rated it 5.10, but I found it much, much easier than Over the Clover, and much more climbing too. Really like the no hands rest before each little roof. Seemed pretty clean, but one of our party did pull off a larger than fist size hold that missed my wife's head by about 6". She kinda wished she would have had a helmet on... Sep 5, 2016
JoeS
 
JoeS  
 
Ledges detract some, but the climbing was really fun. Steep and juggy. Jul 12, 2016