Type: Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Karl Krause, 1993
Page Views: 99 total · 3/month
Shared By: Kate Lynn on Jun 17, 2016
Admins: Kate Lynn

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At the top of the scree slope look to the left for the three bolts in a left facing corner that mark the start of the route. This route starts as for "Suspended in Gaffa" and climbs a parallel lie 20m to the right.

It ends at about half height but an unfinished, bolted pitch continues up.

p1. 5.4 (50 m) Climb the first pitch of Suspended in Gaffa.

p2. 4th (20 m) Traverse right and down following ledges to a bolted station below a series of right-facing corners that lead up the wall.

p3. 5.9+ (50 m) Climb left and follow bolts up corners into an overhang. Follow a steep crack to a bolt, move up and right to a ledge. Continue past two more bolts to a ledge above a short, left-facing corner. Climb up past three more bolts trending left to a station by a white scar on a ledge.

p4. 5.9+ (45 m) Climb up and right towards a right-facing corner with a bolt. Continue past the corner towards two more bolts and up and to a right-facing corner through a long band of overhangs. Climb the overhang and above a bolt to the bolted station where the corner ends. The route continues with bolts but the pitch is unfinished.

Further details and topos can be found at: tabvar.org/sites/default/fi…


Takakka Falls parking lot, follow the trail across the bridge to the base of the falls/viewpoint. Continue past and when possible head up left as close as you can to the wall. Continue to the top of the scree slope and look to the left for the three bolts in a left facing corner that mark the start.


2 50m ropes and "a good assortment of gear"