Type: Sport, 550 ft, 9 pitches
FA: G. Livanos and J. Meunier in 1943
Page Views: 850 total · 20/month
Shared By: riley abbott on Jun 17, 2016 with improvements by Jeff Botimer
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Summer closures Details

Description

Long, secluded and exposed. Straightforward climbing. Excellent.

Route finding midway up can be challenging. Be on the lookout for a sharp left turn.

The pitches are all short, and most could be easily linked. Though, hearing your partner can be an issue as you won't see them most of the time, and boats on the water can make it hard to hear at times.

P1: 4c, Wide crack on the left of the dihedron
P2: 5c, Right above, first step expo.
P3: 5c+, Relay at the big pine
P4: 4b, Crossing left little equipped, after going up right on the ledge (no nails but easy).
P5: 5b, Climb the crack on the right and exit on the left.
P6: 3rd class, corridor to the left to a promontory; common relay with the Civa
P7: 5c, +Reassemble the crack on half of its length then cross to the left.
P8: 5c, A steep passage over the relay.
P9: 5a, Right above

Variants at level L7:
  • It is possible to continue the crack to the top: 6a, rusty bolts, relay on the right at the exit, from where we gain the return path by bleachers and scree to the right.
  • Where the crack separates in two, we can go up the crack of left then go up a ramp not-equipped but easy to the left. We arrive directly at R7, avoiding the draw of the horizontal crossing.
Return
  • Join a horizontal path, and take a left. At an intersection, take the path that climbs a small corridor, up to the left, then down the couloir down the Candelle.
  • Ability to descend abseils from R6.
  • Or if you want a really good day, hike up 10min to the start of Arete of Marseille!

 

Location

Its further left than you might expect. Walk up a steep trail to the base and the left facing dihedral. Route starts up a wide crack.

From the Luminy car park , follow the path to the Sugiton pass, then to the Socle de la Candelle (45 min). The way is in the first face that we see on arrival. On the right of the face, there is a large dihedral which leads to a pine 50 m above. It's here. The crack at the start of the route is very distinctive.

Approach could take anywhere from 30-60 min, depending on how many times you stop for pictures. Gradual downhill most of the way, really easy hiking trails.

Protection

Fixed bolts, though bring a few midsized friends and stoppers just in case.

Photos