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Squid Pig

5.8, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 19 votes
FA: Aaron White, Wayne Pullman
Utah > Southeast Utah > Kane Springs Ca… > Hunter Canyon > Three towers
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

Fun tower with easy climbing, bolts where you want them, and decent gear in between.

Location

The route starts by climbing up the wall opposite the tower to a decent sized ledge from here reach across clip a bolt and transition onto the tower.

Protection

A single set of cams and a couple QuickDraws will get you to the top of this tower. The route has 2 bolts plus a 2 bolt anchor at the top

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking directly at the start
[Hide Photo] Looking directly at the start
Andy Howell stepping across at the start of Squid Pig
[Hide Photo] Andy Howell stepping across at the start of Squid Pig

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Morgan Fry
[Hide Comment] Just Climbed this last weekend. One of the bolts at the anchors is moving, and not just the hanger, but the whole bolt is moving in the hole. Defiantly need to be replaced. Good adventure on this thing, some lose stuff up there, both rock and bolts. Oct 31, 2017
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Anchor bolts were fine today and we tightened the two lead bolts.

Unfortunately, the towers in this area were established using wedge bolts which aren't the best in such soft rock. It's likely that these bolts will need to be tightened many more times in the future. Long 1/2" five piece stainless steel expansion bolts would have been a better choice. Dec 22, 2019
Cole Swan
Durango, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This was my first desert tower and it was quite an enjoyable experience. Beautifully mellow approach, only one other group climbing the opposite towers that morning/afternoon and not a ton of foot traffic in the canyon (some, not a lot). Sandy and watch for rockfall, there are a few blocks I did not like grabbing so tread lightly. Rap anchor below the true "summit", a quick scramble can get you up there. Bolts were tight as well - 30 OCT 2021. Nov 1, 2021
jefe Moab
[Hide Comment] Adventure route on very loose crumbly rock. Used # 3 camalot in soft pocket above 1st bolt, 00 metolius above 2nd bolt, and then two finger sized cams in .4 and .5 range in better cracks before moves left and up to anchors. The leader will move slowly and carefully on friable rock.....Long sling the 1st bolt or get drag from the get-go. Not a route I'd repeat. Nov 22, 2021