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Routes in The "Little" Cave

Churning in the Choss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirty Sheets S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Frog, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pig Iron S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Plate tectonics S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Small Axe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sour Grapes S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Telache S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tube Steak S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tube Top S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 141 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ken Noyce on Jun 17, 2016
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

This route starts up big jugs to gain the obvious flake. Make a couple of moves up the flake to some good holds just left of the flake. The crux arrives at this point as you have to make a couple of moves on smaller slopey holds to get to the clipping hold inside the big black hueco. Stay on the left side of the hueco on big holds up to the anchor. The guide book mentions that you can climb into the hueco for a good rest but you won't get the full value out of the route. Really though, once you are to the hueco the holds are big enough that you shouldn't have any problem hanging onto them.

Location

Third route from the left side of the cave.

Protection

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor, permadraws on all protection bolts and one anchor bolt.

Photos

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A bolt was added to take you right of the hueco. For full 12a value stay right and use the pocket and crank the overhang to the anchor. Jan 12, 2017