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Dharmakaya

5.10c PG13, Trad, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 23 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Gunks > Peterskill > z.. Dickie Barr… > b. The Playground

Description

Look at the steepest face in the Playground; there, just left of the obvious pillar that is The Rook. See that vague weakness right out the middle of the overhangs? That's Dharmakaya. Beautiful white rock down low, powerful moves through the upper section.

Location

Between the left-facing corner of Departure (look for the bolts at the top of this) and the Rook pillar.

Protection

Easy to TR (bolts at the top), but has been led without undue fuss (assumes you're up to the challenge - you're very unlikely to stop to get gear once the hard work begins. And the fall would be large.)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

One of the crux moves on Dharmakaya.
[Hide Photo] One of the crux moves on Dharmakaya.
The route climbs just to the right of the tree trunk in the center of the photo, through the shallow open-book breaks in the upper overhangs.
[Hide Photo] The route climbs just to the right of the tree trunk in the center of the photo, through the shallow open-book breaks in the upper overhangs.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

LB Edwards
Austin, TX
  5.10c PG13
[Hide Comment] A cool sequence of moves get you through the notch in the overhang. A fun route with some thin gear so best to top rope it.

Climbed this while it was wet so that might have made it harder, but still a fun climb, probably the best in the area. May 6, 2019
A Jesse Jiryu Davis
New Paltz, NY
 
[Hide Comment] One of my favorites in Dickie Barre. If you build your anchor by putting a sling on the bolts you'll get significant rope drag. I used a cordelette instead to extend the anchor a bit past an edge, and that sufficed. Aug 12, 2021
badger tadger
[Hide Comment] Great climb. Relatively easy start, and a progressive build-up to the roof crux, but I'm torn here... As a top-rope climb, I really feel like 10c is an extremely generous grade for this climb. The single crux move is more like a 5.10a at best (but more like a 5.9+). I imagine the 10c is a byproduct of this being FA'ed more recently than other Gunks climbs. I feel like 5.8+ would be closer to comparable Gunks climbs. Son of Easy O comes to mind... Perhaps 10c tracks better as a trad climb? Prove me wrong though (please?), I want to understand the rationale here better. Oct 1, 2024