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Routes in d. The Fortress

Left Off Block T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Pumped T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Off Block TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Undertoe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 193 total · 10/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Jun 16, 2016
Admins: JSH

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Description

Here's a route that deserves more action, esp. considering how many folks visit the Clamshell Wall "next door". It's a fun, crimpy, thoughtful face; rated 10b in the guidebook (that might be too high, actually) but it really doesn't have a true crux. It's more of an endurance affair, and thus is a good exercise for anyone looking to challenge their finger stamina.

See photo for route. Step up off R end of slab boulder, work left early on then finish on the steepest rock on the upper face.

Location

Access the top via the terrace that's adjacent to the right-most Clamshell routes. Access the base through the tunnel.

Protection

Not leadable IMO. Plug all your smallest cams (half inch and smaller) in the horizontal on the vertical wall 25-30 feet above the route (look for the bleached log lying on the ground here). Extend to the edge with static rope or webbing. NOTE - the ring bolts that are 15 ft R of this route will NOT work.

Photos

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