Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 508 total · 14/month
Shared By: Bill W on Jun 15, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Long route, somewhat chossy but some fun stemming moves and pockets. Crux at a slight bulge near the start of the route.

Location

Obvious crack to the left of Sunset Slab.

Protection

Gear to 2.5". Anchor is two bolts with standard hangers. No rings or chains. 70m rope required!

Photos

foil
St. Louis, MO
 
foil   St. Louis, MO
 
Much better than the book's one star led us to believe! Watch out for rockfall, though. Oct 9, 2016
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.7+
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.7+
Rock quality is chossy for much of the way up, but solid where it's needed. Helmets are an absolute must for anyone in the fall zone!

Fantastically fun and varied movement throughout that flows well. Our group consensus was that it deserves much more than the 1 star in the book as far as the climbing goes. That being said, the rock quality (RQ) can be atrocious and definitely is not recommended for beginning trad leaders who lack an eye for good RQ placements.

A walk off, though not straightforward, exists. Bring long slings or a cordelette for the anchor. A standard 2 draw sport anchor not recommended due to rope drag.

I would recommend gear to 3".

Finally, route length is 35m EXACTLY (>100 ft). Bring a 70m if a yo yo TR is desired. Apr 22, 2018
Jeff The Grump
Columbia river gorge
 
Jeff The Grump   Columbia river gorge
 
Totally worth doing. It’s not really chossy, it’s just dirty. needs to be climbed more. If you are climbing with anyone that wants to TR and you belay from the ground 70 is required. Jul 2, 2018