Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 301 total · 10/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Jun 15, 2016
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

You & This Route

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This is a link-up and a classic one at that.

Locate the widening crack in a left-facing corner below the obvious bomb-bay chimney high above. Climb the corner using the widening crack (#5 cam helpful) and layback techniques (this is PATC Lieback). When you top out the crack, continue up to the base of Bomb-bay Crack. You can either continue up or make a belay. If you only have one #5 and no #6, I'd recommend making a belay.

Continue up into the widening chimney, facing to climbers right. Near the outer portion, climb the big eye-bolt and move up to small ledge outside the chimney where there are two manky pins. The #6 (or BigBros...possibly the #5 can go) is helpful here...otherwise you're running it out. Continue up either face climbing or using wide techniques. If going wide (I had to...womp womp), heel-toe camming, chicken-winging and arm-bars will see you through. Good options up top for an anchor with medium gear.


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A #6 for the top out will help calm the nerves unless you want to severely run it out or trust two manky pins.

A # 5 is helpful for the wide section at the top of the PATC Lieback portion of this climb.

This line is actually located to the left of Hemlock Crack and Fern Crack.

Scrip the traditional Bombay Crack start (grungy) for this linkup. Jun 17, 2016
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
Definitely heady if your last "piece" was the eye-bolt. Next time I take a #6! Dec 29, 2016