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| Type: | Snow, Alpine |
| FA: | A. Szepessy and M. Szepessy (ski ascent) 1949 |
| Page Views: | 1,568 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jun 15, 2016 |
| Admins: | Tony Yeary, MAKB |
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Description
The normal route, or, most popular. If it hasn't recently snowed, the trail up is more than well beaten and obvious. There are crevasses so roping up is a good idea. Towards the top there is a large crevasse which is easy to hop over. They are obvious and not very wide. After fresh snow, if you are the first, you'll have to do some route finding otherwise just follow the trail.
From the moraine camp it's a little tricky figuring out which way to go to gain access to the glacier. There are little rock markers stacked all over the place which seem to confuse more than aid. Head leftward from the moraine camp, not straight up, until you reach low angle slabs. Scramble up the slabs, passing a little pool of water, until you reach the glacier.
There are two summits. The main summit, as of 2016 is broken up and requires some protection to ascend. The lower summit (about 18,300 feet) is a short climb up a ~55 degree slope.
From the moraine camp it's a little tricky figuring out which way to go to gain access to the glacier. There are little rock markers stacked all over the place which seem to confuse more than aid. Head leftward from the moraine camp, not straight up, until you reach low angle slabs. Scramble up the slabs, passing a little pool of water, until you reach the glacier.
There are two summits. The main summit, as of 2016 is broken up and requires some protection to ascend. The lower summit (about 18,300 feet) is a short climb up a ~55 degree slope.
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