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Routes in Vallunaraju

Southwestern Route
Type: Alpine
FA: A. Szepessy and M. Szepessy (ski ascent) 1949
Page Views: 299 total, 16/month
Shared By: Matt Pennock on Jun 15, 2016
Admins: Tony Yeary

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The normal route, or, most popular. If it hasn't recently snowed, the trail up is more than well beaten and obvious. There are crevasses so roping up is a good idea. Towards the top there is a large crevasse which is easy to hop over. They are obvious and not very wide. After fresh snow, if you are the first, you'll have to do some route finding otherwise just follow the trail.

From the moraine camp it's a little tricky figuring out which way to go to gain access to the glacier. There are little rock markers stacked all over the place which seem to confuse more than aid. Head leftward from the moraine camp, not straight up, until you reach low angle slabs. Scramble up the slabs, passing a little pool of water, until you reach the glacier.

There are two summits. The main summit, as of 2016 is broken up and requires some protection to ascend. The lower summit (about 18,300 feet) is a short climb up a ~55 degree slope.


A rope, ice axe, crampons. Screw/pickets if doing the main summit.
max huecksteadt
Boise ID
max huecksteadt   Boise ID
This is mostly a very easy glacier slog, but aesthetic and with incredible views (standard per the Blanca).

If you want to see what the fuss is about but don't want a hassle, do it from Huaraz in a half day, leaving town around midnight and getting back in time for lunch and a nap!

Skis would be a good idea if you're up to it. Mar 21, 2017