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Routes in North Face

Bear Republic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crispy Cat T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enabler, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Falcon Roast T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Freedom Isn't Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heart Of Darkness S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heart Of Gold S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No More Bush S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Smokey The Bear S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stickleback S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Nic Sabo, Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 142 total · 7/month
Shared By: Lurker on Jun 13, 2016
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start as per Heart Of Darkness, climbing a technical and crimpy slab. At the top of the slab, head left up the overhanging headwall.

Protection

8 bolts, #2 Camalot, rap anchors.

Location

Far left side of the north face.

Photos

Evan Wisheropp
  5.12a
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.12a
Nic Sabo and I both led this route onsight today, Nic getting the first lead. Heart of Gold is a great route, and not as hard as it looks. It's neat how you get technical slab, and overhanging semi-jugs in one route. Get on it! The feature really does look like a perfect heart, looks more like a broken heart if you blow your onsight. The crux is short and very good. 5.11d/12a Sep 10, 2017
Lurker
Verdi, NV
 
Lurker   Verdi, NV  
 
I bolted the lower portion of this route, but the upper portion was bolted by Zach Miller. He named it Heart Of Gold because the wall has a very distinctive heart-shaped feature, and the upper part apparently takes a perfect #2 Camalot. I don't believe he ever redpointed the route, but I think the name is fitting and should be kept out of respect for his hard work in envisioning and bolting the line.

That said, I don't think Zach or I will FA'ing the route any time soon...Zach no longer lives in the area, and I'm nursing a wrist injury. The route is currently an open project. If anyone climbs it, let me know and I'll add you as the FA. Jun 14, 2016