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Routes in The Change Room

Change Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Friction Addiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Root Picker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Try Me T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tubby and His Pal T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Turbulence T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Valley of the Shadow of Death, The T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Michael Crapo
Page Views: 111 total · 5/month
Shared By: michael crapo on Jun 13, 2016
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

The steep slot high up beside "Tubby", visible from the tower at the base. Burley double arm chicken wing start in the roof, to narrowing and overhanging squeeze chimney. Then things get worse, as its still overhanging 5/6 to a fingerlock lip, and an awkward pull into the rest. From here, is another 25 feet of lovely low angle thin hand.

Location

The change room, just to the right of "Tubby". Hike the main access trail from the base up the knotted rope. Keep trending up and left following tape, then fixed hand lines guide you to a flat ledge trending right to another hand line going up a wet corner. From here you can hang a right over to the base, or head up further to another hand line that drops you directly to the base of it.

Protection

You can get away with 1 #6 at the start, then it depends how deep you want to place. I placed 3's 4's and a 5 fairly deep to have them out of the way. A finger size is nice at the lip, then 2 #1's get you to the anchor.

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