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Routes in Tower of Babble

Babble-On S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shard, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Speaking In Tongues S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tongue Twister T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Humphrey & Andre Oullette
Page Views: 86 total, 5/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Jun 13, 2016
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Babble-On climbs the obvious sharp arete facing the Visions Wall. The route is distinguished by an incredible overhanging finish.

There are three optional starts; the offwidth to the left, the mossed over bolt line on the right, or the moderately mossed crack on the far right.
Pitch two makes the approach worth it. Place a #1 off the belay and climb past three bolts on a sharp layback arete (incredibly sharp and tenuous). Alternatively walk right on the ledge, then up and left 4th class to skip that finger slicing crux. Easier terrain leads to the incredible overhanging arete. Make a big throw, let your feet cut, and enjoy!

Edit: The "offwidth" to the left is the best approach pitch in my opinion.

Protection

18 draws, #1 cam.
Plus gear depending on your approach pitch.

Photos

Can't agree more, the approach pitch wasn't hard and was actually pretty safe if you're good with trad, just mostly crappy climbing. I think the contrived first 3 bolts on the second pitch drop the quality rating a bit and following the line of least resistance left or right of those first three bolts is fair game. The goal is just to get up to the goods above. I'll test out the offwidth approach next time to see if that's a bit more more worthwhile. Jun 21, 2016
Sic Nabo  
 
You beat me to it, Evan!

The unenticing approach pitch prevents this route from getting the attention it deserves, but it's worth it! Steep juggy climbing and you top out on a tower! Jun 21, 2016