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Routes in Death Don't Have No Mercy

Death Don't Have No Mercy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indian Head T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 509 total, 29/month
Shared By: Andy Munas on Jun 13, 2016
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Description

The first pitch starts at the slab under the multiple roofs 30 meters above. Climb the grassy slab in the wider crack to the right at the corner. I built a belay under the first roof which made communication with the belayer much easier during the crux:

Climb through a series of four roofs, straight through the first roof, trending right through a moss filled crack at the second roof, straight through the third, and right at the last roof through the undercling and glorious top out.

Really grassy at the top, there may be slings and rap rings to climbers left. Or just top out and find your way to Corkscrew rappel (double ropes).

Location

About 75 feet right of the Tree Toad Fracture dihedral.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

Like a lot of things in the Water Gap, this route gets little traffic or notice. Back in a younger day, I took a crack at it--got as far as completing the traverse right, moved up a bit, plugged in a large stopper--and went in direct on that piece to rest. (Left that piece...it may be resident 'til this day.) It was hard to get moving again, after suspending myself from that piece. I might have had to employ a little French-free technique to get higher before again free-climbing and topping-out with some semi-desperate grass-pulling. Aug 24, 2017
Conor Mark
Asheville, NC
 
Conor Mark   Asheville, NC
 
Glad someone added this to the database, one of the very best routes on either side of the gap. Well worth the hike- you'd be waiting in line for this elsewhere. In 2010, there were still two pins in the crack before the mossy traverse. Also, I have no idea what the Falcon guide is taking about by alternatively bouldering across this section. Aug 20, 2016