All Locations > South Dakota > The Needles Of Ru… > Horsethief Lake Area > The Chessmen > Black Elk Spire
It's Easy To Jug To Conclusions
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Routes in Black Elk Spire
|Black Elk's Cry T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|It's Easy To Jug To Conclusions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft|
|FA:||Chris Pelczarski & Brent Larsen (Ground Up)|
|Page Views:||100 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||BBQ on Jun 10, 2016|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty|
DescriptionStarts with an overhanging, schisty boulder problem that is a bit lichen infested and a bit dirty. But don't worry about the munge, it clears up and the rock gets cleaner pretty quick. After a few hard sidepull moves grab a jug and place a few small cams and nuts, get your feet up and gain a good stance on a juggy rail for some more small nut and cam placements and huck for another jug. Gain a lawn chair of a rest and gain a small crack in the granite for a decent large nut placement before the first bolt.
After that, start dancing and prancing your way up some really good 5.8 crimps and small holds on less than vertical rock that is absolutely bomber. Climb past two more bolts and get ready for the mental crux. After the pounding in the third and final bolt, Chris came to the conclusion that he could float like a helium balloon up 60 feet of suburb 5.7 jugs.
Gain a crack below a pudly bulge and toss in a hand sized cam before crawling up the last ten feet to the summit. If you had an orgasm after sending Four Little Fishies in Custer State Park this route might be right up your alley.
ProtectionBring an assortment of C3's, small cams, small nuts, a big nut and three quickdraws. After the third bolt your best protection is not to fall until a seam at the top takes a fist sized cam. Needles style repel and a walk off through a gully is required. This route might be equipped with more bolts and a proper anchor in the future upon request...but until then sack up and go for an adventure.
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