Type: Trad, TR
FA: Mark Deffenbaugh, Jason Kinser, summer 2004
Page Views: 241 total · 6/month
Shared By: Sam Bedell on Jun 7, 2016 with improvements by Mark D
Admins: Kevin MP, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

The (mostly) bolted line on Midwest Wall. You can protect the thin opening moves with nuts and small cams, clip a bolt and pull the crux move to a hidden jug. The crux is very tricky with hidden holds, tenuous stemming, and powerful moves. (I put 5.10b for this route because that is what it gets in the Watt's guide but expect some serious climbing, equivalent to 5.11 sport on the tuff.)

After a couple reachy mantles protected by bolts you reach the standard Midwest finish: a 6 inch off-width which can be face climbed, just bring the #6 if you don't like a serious run-out.

Location

The middle of Midwest Wall, this climb starts beneath a bolt with a thin finger crack/seam leading up to it.

Protection

a few quickdraws, maybe a couple small cams and nuts for the start, a #5 and #6 for the finish

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