Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 1,082 total · 35/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Jun 6, 2016
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Across the road from Hamburger Crack is a hidden corridor capped by a roof. From deep down inside the northwest end of the corridor, climb up a downward flaring chimney, past a #3 placement, and stem your way into the main corridor. After carefully placing small gear, hop into the horizontal crack (wild). Slither through the horizontal traverse out towards a 6' roof. The traverse is pretty darn unique, and pumpy at the end when it squeezes you out. Save some juice for the roof mantle!

The gear anchor is above the roof so you might as well go full value. The mantle is incredible, don't miss it by stepping off left.

Location

Go left around the rock go a short hidden 4th class downclimb on the northwest corner of the rock. Scramble down into the cave. Start the route just a few feet from the down climb.

Protection

Small nuts and cams from .1-4" and 6-7", plus slings. Scout your gear from across the crack. I place a black alien and #00 metolius in a pod, followed by a tricky nut placement to protect the hop/flop into the belly crawl.
Evan Wisheropp
  5.10+
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.10+
The whole route was loaded up with hundreds of pounds of loose rock/blocks/sand that had to be cleared out of the way on the onsight FA. I spent a lot of time trying to get it nice and cleaned up, but there is still a little bit of dirt on the belly crawl. A quick ten minutes with a bathtub brush would get it spotless though. You could start up on the ledge near the traverse, but there isn't anywhere to anchor your belayer, might as well add the fun/safety and start down below.

The route was a ton of fun, and very unique. Every part was good and I highly recommend it! Jun 7, 2016
Abandoned User  
5.9+
bring a rag, broom and dustpan unless you don't care about getting a bit dirty/poopy. Also semi decent mantle technique would be nice to have before you flail on this. Apr 20, 2017
Evan Wisheropp
  5.10+
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.10+
No kidding! I'm hoping I can make it back there soon-ish so I can give that pod a good cleaning. It looks like your layback was a clever way around the dusty crawl. Ps, yeah, that is a wild mantle isn't it?! Kinda hard. Please feel free to give it a consensus grade. Apr 21, 2017
Abandoned User  
5.9+
Personally, I stayed in the crack the whole time. No lay-back for me. May 9, 2017
Evan Wisheropp
  5.10+
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.10+
I was back in town finally and climbed this one again a few times today. So much fun! I bought a bathtub brush to finish up the cleaning and forgot it in the car, sorry!! I don't mind it as is, but I will be pretty amped when it is spotless. It was really cool seeing so many people today excited to try it. Jan 11, 2018