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Routes in Poison Oak Boulder Area

5.10 Face S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Airplane Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Atom Ant TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bad Boys from Detroit TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Grunt TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Squeak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blasted Rock 3 - Center V5 6C
Blue Collar V1 5
Cast of a Thousand Stones TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cool Jerk S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Deport Jonny (aka Jonny Go Home) TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deport Jonny Forever TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Scoop TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elsa's Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eppy Birthday TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fade to Black TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Go With The Flow TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Medallion V2 5+
Hairdo S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hamburger Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0 4
High on the Hog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Hollywood Shot T A3
Laker Girls TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Laying Down On The Job T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left of the Tree 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V0+ 4+
Monkey Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poison Oak Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right of the Tree 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0- 4-
Skid Row V3 6A
Slap You Silly TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Starving In Stereo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Welcome to Rubidoux TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Werner's Wish TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 929 total · 35/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Jun 6, 2016
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Across the road from Hamburger Crack is a hidden corridor capped by a roof. From deep down inside the northwest end of the corridor, climb up a downward flaring chimney, past a #3 placement, and stem your way into the main corridor. After carefully placing small gear, hop into the horizontal crack (wild). Slither through the horizontal traverse out towards a 6' roof. The traverse is pretty darn unique, and pumpy at the end when it squeezes you out. Save some juice for the roof mantle!

The gear anchor is above the roof so you might as well go full value. The mantle is incredible, don't miss it by stepping off left.

Location

Go left around the rock go a short hidden 4th class downclimb on the northwest corner of the rock. Scramble down into the cave. Start the route just a few feet from the down climb.

Protection

Small nuts and cams from .1-4" and 6-7", plus slings. Scout your gear from across the crack. I place a black alien and #00 metolius in a pod, followed by a tricky nut placement to protect the hop/flop into the belly crawl.
The whole route was loaded up with hundreds of pounds of loose rock/blocks/sand that had to be cleared out of the way on the onsight FA. I spent a lot of time trying to get it nice and cleaned up, but there is still a little bit of dirt on the belly crawl. A quick ten minutes with a bathtub brush would get it spotless though. You could start up on the ledge near the traverse, but there isn't anywhere to anchor your belayer, might as well add the fun/safety and start down below.

The route was a ton of fun, and very unique. Every part was good and I highly recommend it! Jun 7, 2016
rusty pitoune
  5.10+
rusty pitoune  
  5.10+
bring a rag, broom and dustpan unless you don't care about getting a bit dirty/poopy. Also semi decent mantle technique would be nice to have before you flail on this. Apr 20, 2017
No kidding! I'm hoping I can make it back there soon-ish so I can give that pod a good cleaning. It looks like your layback was a clever way around the dusty crawl. Ps, yeah, that is a wild mantle isn't it?! Kinda hard. Please feel free to give it a consensus grade. Apr 21, 2017
rusty pitoune
  5.10+
rusty pitoune  
  5.10+
Personally, I stayed in the crack the whole time. No lay-back for me. May 9, 2017
I was back in town finally and climbed this one again a few times today. So much fun! I bought a bathtub brush to finish up the cleaning and forgot it in the car, sorry!! I don't mind it as is, but I will be pretty amped when it is spotless. It was really cool seeing so many people today excited to try it. Jan 11, 2018

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