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Routes in South Summit

Blister Hill Bypass to Forgotten Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dead Baby Goat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Geurt's Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seriously where the f*** is Duc TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
South Summit Push, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Waiting for Duc T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Where's Duc T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Matt Evans, Garon Coriz, Bo Stroyls
Page Views: 372 total · 13/month
Shared By: matt evans on Jun 5, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

First pitch starts at 5.7 in a broken crack that is fairly easy to protect. Ends with a bold 5.10a roof move that has nearly no feet (but at least the pro is solid). Only feet available are on black lichen that is quite insecure. Luckily the hand holds for pulling the roof are quite good and there is less lichen to ruin your day. First belay is at a large tree just beyond the roof move. Second pitch is located about 40 feet climbers left and up a small gully that diagonals up and right. I'd recommend you untie and scramble over there, which is what we did. I guess you could pitch it out if you don't like scrambling. Second pitch starts below another wild roof move that goes at about 5.9. The roof/bulge is steep but the hand holds are solid. Once you dance left around the bulge and pull the moves there is a corner system above that meanders around and over a few bulges that goes at about 5.8 to end at a solid belay station at another very large tree. This is just above where the namesake dead baby goat was found. Last pitch goes straight above the tree past another small roof system and then onto easy face climbing (but still plenty of pro). Last belay station is at the top of the ridge. Descent is by summiting the South summit by Geurt's ridge. The remaining ridge we did unroped. Ridge is fun, has great exposure, and is easy enough to solo. Easy to access south summit from here and then hike down the Mt Olympus main hiking trail, so be sure to bring your packs with you.

Location

A good 2 hour approach. North facing quartzite cliffs of the south summit that is about a 10-15 minute hike down from the saddle betweeen the north and south summits. Get there after climbing the west slabs and traversing the gully between the north and south summits. You could probably get here from the mt olympus trail but I've never tried this approach.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

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