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Routes in Public Sanitation Wall

Afterburner S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Afterburner Variation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Best Bet Arete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Easy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Carpet Bagger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Final Cut S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Higher than you T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Retrobolted and Super Fun! T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sanitary Engineer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Solid Waste T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spike T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Substance Abuse S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Temple of Doom S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Total Way-ist S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tucker's Proud Rock Climb S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Unknown and Super Fun! S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown but Splitter S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Waste Not, Whip Not S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wide Thing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wish You Were Here S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wishing Well S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Cade Lloyd (1990)
Page Views: 240 total, 14/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Jun 4, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

One of the many classic 12's at Pub San. Located on the steep arete to the left of Spike. Access the start of the route by bushwhacking onto a ledge from the left side.

Climb 30 ft of crack and face to gain a big ledge with an intermediate anchor (makes for a fun, if short, pitch of 10d sport on it's own). Climb up a juggy flake, clip another bolt out right and then traverse up and over to the arete. Climb past an undercling with an old smashed-up wasp nest, and then you get into the business.

The crux is a V3 boulder problem below the penultimate bolt. The Reid Guide is confusing because it's description for the route is "When in doubt, stay right", and there's some slopers and features out right, above a copperhead. But this is harder than it looks, and makes for a scary fall. You actually want to stay on the left side of the arete, and use sidepull edges along a seam in opposition to the arete.

After the crux is a bit more of 5.11 'don't-blow-it-now' climbing past one more bolt to the anchor. At the end you want to swing over to the right and mantle the dirty shelf, then blindly reach around left to clip the anchor. This is maybe what Don Reid was referring to by "staying right".

Protection

Bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap. The bolts are old and need to be replaced, especially the last couple and the anchor.

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Andrew U
Yosemite, CA
  5.12b
Andrew U   Yosemite, CA
  5.12b
This route is awesome. Honestly, I am suprised it's not more popular. If Yosemite was more famous for its sport climbs, this would be one heck of a famous route. Maybe it's just overshadowed by its brother "Final Cut" just to the left of it. Nov 16, 2016