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Best Bet Arete
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Lower Tier
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Best Bet Arete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Black Fly S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Carpet Bagger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Final Cut S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Spike T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wide Thing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wish You Were Here S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wishing Well S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 37.73908, -119.58843 |
| FA: | Cade Lloyd (1990) |
| Page Views: | 1,399 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Jun 4, 2016 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
One of the many classic 12's at Pub San. Located on the steep arete to the left of Spike. Access the start of the route by bushwhacking onto a ledge from the left side.
Climb 30 ft of crack and face to gain a big ledge with an intermediate anchor (makes for a fun, if short, pitch of 10d sport on it's own). Climb up a juggy flake, clip another bolt out right and then traverse up and over to the arete. Climb past an undercling with an old smashed-up wasp nest, and then you get into the business.
The crux is a V3 boulder problem below the penultimate bolt. The Reid Guide is confusing because it's description for the route is "When in doubt, stay right", and there's some slopers and features out right, above a copperhead. But this is harder than it looks, and makes for a scary fall. You actually want to stay on the left side of the arete, and use sidepull edges along a seam in opposition to the arete.
After the crux is a bit more of 5.11 'don't-blow-it-now' climbing past one more bolt to the anchor. At the end you want to swing over to the right and mantle the dirty shelf, then blindly reach around left to clip the anchor. This is maybe what Don Reid was referring to by "staying right".
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