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Routes in K-9 Crag

Animal Control S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Beefcake Pantyhose S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beta Male S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bigwig S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bigwig (right finish) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bigwig (with Salon finish) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dog House S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Doggy Style S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Everyday Nirvana S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Margin of Air S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Naked In The Rain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Omega S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out of Control S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Simon Says S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Toupee S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Waitin' for Jimi S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bryan Burdo
Page Views: 204 total, 11/month
Shared By: Andrew Davidson on May 31, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A crag classic that links a few 5.11 cruxes.

Starts on slightly overhanging, short wall ("Toupee"). Up an unprotected ramp to the upper face. Traverse back right. There is a fixed draw right before gaining the Arete where a no hands rest is. Going up, the "Salon" finish gets pumpy, goes straight up following a slightly layback flake to a fixed draw and fixed quick link anchor.

Location

Right of Doggy Stylin'
First route Left of the Ramp,
The arete is the left side of the "woof"

Protection

13 bolts
1 extendable draw

2 fixed draws
Fixed Steel Biner anchor

Photos

- No Photos -
Zachary Winters
Mazama, Washington
Zachary Winters   Mazama, Washington
Yes, the "Salon finish" is the easier left finish. The plumb line straight up the shallow RFC is considered by most to be the standard Bigwig (11c) finish. The 11b finish hangs a left from under the final roof and goes up a 10a crack. This left version has old aluminum lower-off biners, and could use fixed steel biners. Aug 27, 2017
Sweet thanks. In talking to Burdo it seems what I explained is the way. It seems he's changed his mind? None the less, stellar link up options! Aug 7, 2017
Andrew Davidson
Everett, WA
 
Andrew Davidson   Everett, WA
 
The Salon Finish ends on the last section of Doggy Stylin, correct. But looking at the Mazama Rocks Guide book and the 2016 addendum. The end of Doggy Stylin traverses right under a small roof where You connect into from Bigwig. Then goes up the small RFC/flake thing past another small roof to the fix draw you mentioned. Which is directly inline above the arete. Bigwig proper follows the arete right and goes .11d. There is a third variation that connects with "Doggy" and traverses right and ends on the final crack of Bigwig at .11c

Now in the addendum, it states there is an extension directly above Doggy Stylin which is a 5.10 bolted crack, which you might confuse for the proper finish of Doggy Stylin.

This is based on my interpretation of the topos and route overlays in the guidebook. Jul 13, 2017
I believe the Salon finish is taking the leftward line at the top, which is the proper finish for Doggy stylin. The Salon finish goes at 11b, Bigwig straight up goes at 11c (with the fixed draw on the last bolt), and the OG bigwig goes on the rightward bolt line after the arĂȘte (11d) Jul 12, 2017