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Routes in King's Hand

Easy Ramp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
King's Hand Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
King's Hand Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Konichiwa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Moonglue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sic Fun Ramp T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Teabag T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 242 total · 8/month
Shared By: aparnas on May 30, 2016
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Climb up a dirty crack with a bush in the way to a ledge. Enter the chimney and stem up to where the crack pinches down to offwidth. Thrash up and top out in a dirty alcove with some loose rocks. A short scramble up from the alcove, and you will find yourself in the middle of the King's Hand ledge.


This could be considered an approach route to the other King's Hand climbs, as it tops out on the bench above Jaycee Park Campground. Hike climbers right from the campground until you can follow a gully uphill to some easy scrambling that brings you over a band of chossy stone. Head back climbers left along the ledge. The climb is the obvious wide crack facing North.


Wide gear suggested. 1-2 X BD #3, 1-2 X BD #5, 1-2 X BD #6, Large stoppers for the top section, and a few BD #1 or #2 to build an anchor.


Just a quick post-script. I couldn't find any info on this line on mountain project or in the new High on Moab book, so I am listing it as an FA. However, it is such an obvious route from the road as you head towards Wall Street that I find it hard to believe I'm the first one to climb it! If anyone has any info on this route that I couldn't find, speak up! May 30, 2016
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
Not sure... Looks bomb though, I'd climb it. Jun 2, 2016
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
Pretty sure this is not an FA.

Desert Rock (the blue one) includes three routes in the right-facing corners under the King's Hand. I think one of them is called Mormon Tea. I don't have my copy with me and won't for another few months, or I'd check the details now.

Good on you for exploring though! I love that Moab has such obscure (and even moderate) routes so close to town and the road. Jun 6, 2016
Thanks Joe! I figured someone would know the truth. I've updated the name and FA status and will double check in the next desert rock book I see. Jun 7, 2016
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
Only 7 months later, I took desert rock for a walk on a cold and cloudy day in Moab. And, I changed my mind...seems like this could be an FA after all.

Bjornstad mentions three prominent right-facing dihedrals just upstream from Jaycee Campground. Looks like your new route is the left one, the middle one is Musk Mustard, and the right one is Mormon Tea. Jan 4, 2017
Pretty cool info! Thanks for taking the time to check it out for me! Jan 5, 2017

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