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Routes in Needle Rock

North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Tin Cup Pistol Tricks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 243 total · 11/month
Shared By: Furthermore on May 30, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

From the parking area, hike north-northwest on the trail as it winds its way to the north side of the formation.

Once on the north side of the formation, there are two easy ramps that appear to have 5.6 climbing. The correct ramp is on the right and is fairly obvious. You can look for a new bolt ~40-50 feet up to insure you're starting up the correct ramp.

Climb up a series of short 5.0-5.4 terraces to the bolt. A rusted piton continuing up the ramp is not the correct path; instead, traverse left (5.6) to a blocky gully. Climb up the gully, extremely chossy, passing a fixed pin (acceptable) to a vegetated ledge. Continue past the ledge up through a somewhat tricky roof.

Belay at the top of the roof or at the vegetated ledge if rope drag is a problem. From here, it's a class 3 romp to the top.

For the descent, look for a slung horn, and rappel ~150 feet down a different gully to the ground.

Protection

Gear is funky to non-existent. Double check the rock quality on every move as this would be a bad route to take a lead fall. Climbing without a helmet would be silly. Belaying without a helmet would be foolish and naive.

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