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Routes in Alcohol Wall

Have Annutha Drink S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jing and Tonic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naugahyde S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf Psycho S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bill Bently
Page Views: 297 total, 16/month
Shared By: bayard russell jr on May 27, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

The meat of Naugahyde is 8 bolts of sustained crimping on a gently overhanging wall, with only one marginal rest. This route gets the grade of 5.12c/d in the Handren guide, but after a crucial foothold broke low on the headwall, the crux became a body length longer - this extra body length is now probably hardest bit of climbing on the route - which is for the better!
Sustained crimping on small edges, sidepulls, underclings after a very "traditional" feeling boulder problem gains access to the route.
The rock may feel friable, but it has gotten a lot of traffic and no more holds have broken. There is a very large partially detached flake that the route finishes on, it hasn't moved yet, but it looks a little scary.
A great route to put together. 13a is my best guess for the grade, but would love to hear other opinions.

Location

Alcohol Wall. The first route left of the black fixed rope protecting a 3rd class traverse of doom.

Protection

sport

Photos

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