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Lost Nuts

5.12b, Trad, 70 ft,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
Arizona > Central Arizona > *Phoenix Areas > Pinnacle Peak > Pinnacle Peak

Description

Lost Nuts climbs the distinct flaring crack just to the left of Death Watch. From the ground it doesn't look so bad...until you try to do the first moves! Hard flaring jams, plus the leaning nature of the crack make this thing a beast! After getting established, move up a bit and clip a bolt a few feet before the flare pinches down to a seam. After that it's still in your face with tiny gear, strenuous stances, and not much rest. Fortunately, there's a 'Thank God' jug near about 80% of the way up...

Location

Up and right of Chug A Lug. Starts on a boulder just left of Death Watch. Pretty obvious flare.

Protection

1 bolt plus lots of tiny gear. Small nuts and C3's.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lost Nuts - .12b
[Hide Photo] Lost Nuts - .12b

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tim Heid
AZ
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] This rig was harder than it looked for the ground. I TR'd it and still couldn't do a handful of the moves! Especially down low in the flare..

Would be a rad lead! The upper seam took bomber 00C3's. May 27, 2016
[Hide Comment] Golly, this is a difficult route! On top-rope we were able to do all the moves. The crux for myself felt right around the bolt and the three moves right after. Lots of crimping opportunities and good feet out right make this just bearable. A lead seems out-of-the-question, good thing there are TR anchors up top! Mar 3, 2018