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Routes in Wayback Cliff

El Nino Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trillium T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 330 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1 Tad Welch, Bill Widrig, June 1, 1981 P2 Mark Bealor, Michelle Sirois, May 21, 2016
Page Views: 187 total · 6/month
Shared By: Mark Bealor on May 25, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Pitch two has great climbing and position on the proud and obvious black buttress that sits above and right of the “Mr. Peabody” slab.
Parts of Trillium pitch one undoubtedly follow the second pitch of Mr. Peabody (pg. 470 ADK Rock girl book). This slab is one of the most attractive features on Wayback Cliff, and it is obvious why Tad Welch and Bill Widrig chose to climb it, with scant protection, in 1981. Welch remembers placing a RURP low on the slab, less for protection than because “I think we were just enamored by the idea of using them any way we could”.Two bolts have been added to the slab, with Welch’s permission, and this is now a reasonably protected moderate pitch in a nice setting.
P1 5.7 PG: Climb directly up the attractive slab to a bolt at 40’. Climb up and slightly right to a hidden .5 Camalot. Up and slightly left leads to a very shallow pocket that takes a red Alien. Easier slab climbing runs it out to a second bolt where the angle steepens. Face climb up and right (V1) past a short steeper section, and continue up lower angle slab (V2) to the lower of two pines. There is a fixed sling and quick link here for protection for both leader and follower. Down climb along the left facing wall and over secure blocks. Step left (skiers) around the corner to a flat 5’x5’ belay “corral” with a two bolt anchor.. A cool place to be. 190’
P2 5.10- G: Climb the off width and left face for 15’ to a stance. Climb the twin cracks (5.8) to a large ledge. Climb a shallow dihedral (5.9) past three bolts. Face moves (5.9+ ) lead to cracks and a bulge. Pass the bulge (hidden bucket) to a stance. Pass another bulge to a crack and lower angle terrain. Cruise up to a steeper clean black face with two bolts. Climb the thin face (crux) up and left to a shallow crack. Up the crack and arete to a two bolt anchor. Great moves and position on this pitch. 140’
V1 5.9- PG: Face climb up and left from the second bolt past a small, hollow overlap. Angle up and right to rejoin the regular route.
V2 5.6 (PG/R for follower): Move straight right after the crux to the blocks in the corner. This may or may not result in a bad swing for the second.

Location

Start: At the extreme lowest point of the clean and narrow “Mr. Peabody” slab. There are very shallow twin cracks in the slab here.
Descent: Two rappels from bolted anchors, both require two 60M ropes.

Protection

Gear: P1 has two bolts, .5 camelot, shallow red alien. P2 has six bolts, takes green C3, single cams blue alien to .75 camelot, an extra finger sized cam, small/medium nuts.

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