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Zizanie

5.10d, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 11 votes
FA: Paul Laperriere, Dominique Forget, 1986
International > N America > Canada > Quebec > 15. Laurentides > Val-David > Dame de Coeur > b. Joker
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Description

Erosion and broken holds have resulted in an increasingly bouldery start. Once you have reached the first bolt, enjoy easier climbing on positive sidepulls to a slab top-out. Stick-clipping is recommended.

L'érosion et quelques prises cassées ont développé un départ très bloc.  Une fois passé la première plaquette, la voie est plus facile avec de bonnes prises verticales suivi d'une sortie en dalle.  l'utilisation d'un stick clip est fortement suggéré.

Location

This is the 6th bolted route from the far right of the crag. Depart from the right side of the large flat rock lying at the base.

C'est la 6ieme voie équipé a partir de la droite de ce mur. Départ a partir du coté droit d'une grosse roche plate a la base.

Protection

7 bolts + fixed anchors.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gab Charette
Sainte-Agathe-des-Monts
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Very hard start (>5.10b IMO), stick clipping is a must if 5.10b isn't easy for you. The route is amazing after the first bolt. Jun 15, 2019
Alex P
Montreal, QC
[Hide Comment] Awesome route! Very different rock and climbing, start is wicked hard not a 5.10B more like an 5.11B in my opinion. Its evident that the holds break and wear down. Jul 22, 2019
Jérémi Grenier-Berthiaume
Montreal
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Scary first bolt with a rather hard (5.10d+?) bouldery crux right below it. Definitely stick-clip it.
The rest of the route is beautiful: chill lay-backs on great flakes the whole way up, until the last bolt which tops on a slab. Sep 5, 2020
Julien Piche
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Bouldery start, in-cut side-pulls, scary slab, what's not to love? Oct 14, 2024