Silver Star Glacier
4th Steep Snow,
Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1200 ft, Grade II,
Avg: 3.1 from 28
FA: Fred Beckey, Joe Heib, Herb Staley and Don Wilde. May 1952
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> N Cascades
> Washington Pass
> Silver Star & c…
> Silver Star Mountain
This is a great route, and is reasonable to do in a day if you have a good fitness level. From Burgandy Col, drop down the steep snow onto the glacier and head East. Eventually, you will arrive at the rock that leads to the summit. Scramble up and be proud. To descend, reverse the route.
There are two starts to this climb:
The most common approach begins at mile marker 166 on Highway 20. Drop down the embankment and cross the creek on a log, then pick up the well-defined climber's trail. From here, make the long hike towards Burgundy Col. Eventually, you will see a gully that heads to the Col - stay on the left of the gully and haul yourself up there. Once at Burgundy Col, grab some water and a snack while taking in the incredible views. This approach involves about 3500 feet of elevation gain to reach Burgundy Col, where you will downclimb steep snow to gain the glacier.
Silver Star Creek
I have not personally done this approach. There is good beta available on Summitpost and other websites, but you essentially stay on the East side of the mountain the whole time and avoid the climb to Burgundy Col. This is the best option when it is early season and there is plenty of snow covering the approach.
Most climbers will only need standard glacier gear, but some may want a light(!) rock rack for the scrambling to the summit.
Climbers on the approach to Silver Start Glacier. Silver Star Col is in the middle of the photo and the Wine Spires on the right.
Getting ready to rope up for the Silver Star Glacier.