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Routes in B. Middle Cliff Routes

Boaty's Birthday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Boys Are Back at Bone, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Breaking the Wishbone T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Compound Fracture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Family Picnic S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flippin the bird T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fuck Rumney T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golf Ball Sized Urethra T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maybe God's a Trad Climber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mountaineers Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schistorectomy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Traction Splint T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Connor Myers, (May 23rd, 2016)
Page Views: 502 total · 25/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on May 23, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Another climb that will deserve more stars once cleaned. A great route to pair with Family Picnic.

P1. Begin up the face with difficulty until reaching easier terrain above. Continue up a gear protected bulge, followed by a bolt protected bulge and easier dirty terrain and a gear belay. (5.8)

P2. Step right from the belay and continue up easy blocky climbing aiming for the obvious fist crack above you. Use the fist crack to reach good holds before traversing right under the small roof to a two-bolt belay. A steep but surprisingly mellow ending! (5.7)

I had my drill stolen out of my car recently and upon wondering out loud what I could possibly have done to deserve such a thing, the name of this climb was Connor's answer.

Location

Begin at an obvious triangle of missing rock with a glue-in bolt above it about 20 feet right of Family Picnic.

Protection

Standard rack. Gear belay at the top of Pitch 1 if you have it or use the mid-anchor for Family Picnic. Bolts at the top of pitch 2.

A 60 meter rope is required to rappel from the anchors to the bottom of Fuck Rumney and it's a real stretch so make sure your rope is a true 60. Alternatively, you can rappel to the mid-anchors of Family Picnic to descend in two raps.

Photos

Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
 
That's true, Dylan. It's a little out of line so if you have the gear to build an anchor it's more in line for the second pitch but the bolts for Family Picnic are close. It's why I didn't want to create a second bolted anchor for it. Dec 13, 2016
doliver  
You can belay on the first pitch anchors for family picnic. Good route! Oct 19, 2016