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Routes in North Wash

Bishop, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Way Jose T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Trail of Tears T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twisted Pangus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FFA Scott Carson and Paul Harvey 1998
Page Views: 319 total, 18/month
Shared By: Anus Herder on May 23, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Climbing regulations are in effect. Details

Description

An out there tower that has some good exposure and an absolutely classic 2nd pitch. After a bit of a hike in approach the right (North side of the tower).
The route starts up a 35 ft. 5.8 offwidth section to the base of an absolutely classic lightning bolt big hands crack (10+). Belay at the top of the crack at bolts. Next, make a face traverse left past one bolt (10+) to a fist crack which quickly opens to #4 Camalot size. At the top of the short offwidth section, traverse left 10 ft., step around the arete and climb face and crack to the top (5.9). Find rappel bolts on the opposite side of the tower. Take 2 ropes for the free-hanging rappel.

Location

Driving south east on US-95 in North Wash toward Hite, this classic tower is on your left. It's about 2 miles after you enter the GCNRA on the left (North) side of the road. The top of the tower is visible from the road. Hike up the wash about 1/2 mile and look for cairns. You'll see it on hikers left. Don't go straight up to the tower. Instead hike past the tower in the wash and traverse up and left.

Protection

Light in the small sizes, heavy hand-fist, with at least (2) #4 Camalots and (1) #4.5 Camalot. Top of P2 has bolted anchors. There is 1 bolt on p2. 2 Rap Bolts on top of Tower. 2 60m Ropes will get you down.

Photos

Scott Carson
  5.10c/d
Scott Carson  
  5.10c/d
FFA Scott Carson and Paul Harvey 1998. The grade given was 5.10+. P1 5.8, P2 10+, P3 5.10.

Please note: to descend, very carefully scramble down 15 to 20 feet to the north to the anchor. Jan 31, 2017