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Routes in North Wash
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[Redacted] T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Bishop, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fiddle Sticks Tower, East Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1 PG13 |
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No Way Jose T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | FFA Scott Carson and Paul Harvey 1998 |
| Page Views: | 2,866 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Anus Herder on May 23, 2016 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Climbing regulations are in effect.
Details
The following is prohibited:
limited to pitons, chocks, bolts and all other climbing aids.
The above regulations may be found in this document. nps.gov/glca/parkmgmt/loade…
- Climbing and/or rappelling by any means on any man-made structures.
- Technical rock climbing within 1/4 mile of occupied Peregrine Falcon, Bald Eagle, Condor and
- Leaving gear and equipment used in connection with climbing activities unattended. The gear and
limited to pitons, chocks, bolts and all other climbing aids.
- The use of glue or other aids that are permanent or leave a visible or long lasting residue.
- Climbing within the boundaries of Rainbow Bridge NM.
The above regulations may be found in this document. nps.gov/glca/parkmgmt/loade…
Description
An out there tower that has some good exposure and an absolutely classic 2nd pitch. After a bit of a hike in approach the right (North side of the tower).
The route starts up a 35 ft. 5.8 offwidth section to the base of an absolutely classic lightning bolt big hands crack (10+). Belay at the top of the crack at bolts. Next, make a face traverse left past one bolt (10+) to a fist crack which quickly opens to #4 Camalot size. At the top of the short offwidth section, traverse left 10 ft., step around the arete and climb face and crack to the top (5.9). Find rappel bolts on the opposite side of the tower. Take 2 ropes for the free-hanging rappel.
The route starts up a 35 ft. 5.8 offwidth section to the base of an absolutely classic lightning bolt big hands crack (10+). Belay at the top of the crack at bolts. Next, make a face traverse left past one bolt (10+) to a fist crack which quickly opens to #4 Camalot size. At the top of the short offwidth section, traverse left 10 ft., step around the arete and climb face and crack to the top (5.9). Find rappel bolts on the opposite side of the tower. Take 2 ropes for the free-hanging rappel.
Location
Driving south east on US-95 in North Wash toward Hite, this classic tower is on your left. It's about 2 miles after you enter the GCNRA on the left (North) side of the road. The top of the tower is visible from the road. Hike up the wash about 1/2 mile and look for cairns. You'll see it on hikers left. Don't go straight up to the tower. Instead hike past the tower in the wash and traverse up and left.
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