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Routes in Old Quarry Walls

A B-Boy's Alpha S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bloodstain, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cloud Surfari S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cloud Surfing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crackrock Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desparête   S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Devil's Cut S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evil Beauty (Closed Proj) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fiendish Following S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Ghetto, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happiness Is a Warm Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
People's Rock, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psychonautics S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Run For Cover S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scifentology S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Slightly Removed S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tasmanian Pain Coaster S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tax Evasion Haven S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Traxamillion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tree of Knowledge, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tree of Life, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Winning and Losing S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Jared Incillo
Page Views: 1,270 total, 67/month
Shared By: JIncillo on May 22, 2016
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

Tallest route at the crag. Starts at the bottom of the massive corner and works it's way up into it. Follow the corner through some easier terrain and break out left onto the face for the finish.

Location

The tallest part of the quarry walls in the largest most obvious corner. Left of Desparete and Right of the people's rock wall.

Protection

10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

jim kaminski
5.15d
jim kaminski  
5.15d
Fun climb! Oct 18, 2017
Considering the fact that “T Roper” was part of the crew of individuals that helped develop the area, id say he knows a thing or two about the crag. I can name 5 climbs in the quarry area alone, excluding Happiness, that have death or at least dangerous blocks that are ready to come out.

“but as far as ct trap rock goes, those sport areas are choice”
There are far better sport climbing areas in CT (including on traprock) with much higher quality, and less fragile stone. That being said, West Rock is still a great little crag. Has a great concentration of hard climbs, including one of CTs hardest (and raddest).

And remember kids….knock first and always pull down, not out. Dec 1, 2016
Wes Schultz
Seymour, ct
 
Wes Schultz   Seymour, ct
 
"Very few West Rock climbs are without death blocks, it is not a typical sport crag"

have to disagree with you for the ballfield and quarry sport climbs. They are very well cleaned, fully developed. The rock is exfoliating, and as such I have pulled off a few fist to helmet sized rocks in my time there, but as far as ct trap rock goes, those sport areas are choice Dec 1, 2016
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
"20 feet tall 10 feet wide and several feet thick."
Sounds like half the climbs in this area to me.

Very few West Rock climbs are without death blocks, it is not a typical sport crag. Nov 7, 2016
guy bon  
Call Gerg @ Trundlers Inc. Master exfoliator with years of experience behind the pry-bar. takes care of excessive floral growth as well. A true professional. Nov 5, 2016
Echoinfi
  5.9+
Echoinfi  
  5.9+
I would just clean it. Nov 5, 2016
thebmags
Outback, Subaru
 
thebmags   Outback, Subaru
 
Nice eye ! Long, knot the end of your rope Oct 17, 2016
Echoinfi
  5.9+
Echoinfi  
  5.9+
This is a awesome climb, very different in the fact that its like 10 bolts long. It has a low crux and then another one at the end. It definitely follows the technical west rock diehedral theme of the zone. You have to think. With some more traffic it should clean up. Great work on this one Jared. I cleaned it up a bit more and removed the poison ivy from the base. I also fixed the anchor by adding a quick link so you can lower off. Jun 11, 2016
Morgan Patterson   CT  
YES!!! Awesome work Jared! So glad you made this a reality! May 23, 2016