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Routes in Norwich Ledge

Bazinga! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Book of Saturdays T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Parmotrema Arnoldii T WI5-6 M7+ A0 PG13
Route to Glory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stritch Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Urushiol T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Walt's Crawlers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Aid, Mixed, Ice, 240 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dave Rone & Jon Jugenheimer
Page Views: 523 total, 27/month
Shared By: jon jugenheimer on May 22, 2016
Admins: jon jugenheimer, Paul Peppin

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Description

Parmotrema Arnoldii, A type of Lichen. Possibly the type found on the 4th pitch keeping the microscopic edges hidden, and offering the illusion of security, only to rip once pulling down. You will fully understand once you get there...

Four short, but involved pitches from the ground to the very top of the cliff provide a real mountain experience deep in the woods of the Midwest-a rare treat for us that call this slice of the country home.

Pitch 1. Start up a ramp to severely broken rock, cleaning was done on the FA. Climb up and left to under the roof. Gear is found above in the crack. Traverse up and left more to gain the ice to surmount the roof by turnings its side. Continue up and slightly left again following the crack in the slab. belay at the single bolt that can be equalized with a pecker.

Pitch 2. Traverse straight right on the slab/foot ledge. A pin and a cam protect this bit before the corner. At the corner, climb vertical 5/6 ice to the top of the pillar.
Set a hanging belay here off Screws.

Pitch 3. The FA traversed left around the corner utilizing a single bolt placed while on tension from Kb in the thin seam to gain the ice to climb above the roof. If possible, and in better style, climb the dagger climbers right of the belay to gain the roof if present, it was not during the FA. Continue straight up via scary snow covered/verglass slab climbing to a head wall above. Good gear is a welcome relief below the headwall! clip a long runner on the one or two excellent cams found and traverse right around the corner and up a few more meters. Set a belay on ice if present. If there isn't any ice, Hope you brought a drill...

Pitch 4, the crux. Climb right from the belay two meters, than straight up the horror show above. Use all your alpine trickery, shitty cams, pound in's (sprecter here!) nuts and a hope to get you up this pitch. M7/M8/M?? who knows. Climb the groove, up left over the vertical bit under the small roof and then left again to finally overcome the last pitch. Trench up another 20 meters or so to the large trees above to set a belay.

We made one single rap to the belay on the top of pitch three, then one double rope rap to the ground from a V thread.

Bring a headlamp, if the wall is all snowed up, the climbing will take awhile as it is slightly insecure slab climbing most of the way.

Location

Left of Book of Saturdays, the climb can easily be found via the large break in the top of the cliff line. That break is pitch 4, the exit pitch into the forest above.

Protection

Bring a standard mixed trad rack of small TCU's to a #3 C4, a single rack of wires, 4 Kb's (two long, two short) a large Pecker and a specter. Also, 2 stubbies, 1 super stubbie, 2 13's and a few 16cm screws should get you up. On the first ascent, we hauled a drill with us and placed two bolts on route. One at the top of the first pitch to make the belay (equalizing a pecker) and one on pitch three to turn the corner back onto the ice, due to no natural gear.

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