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Routes in Jaberwocky Tower

East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Beckstead and Paul Myhre (1970)
Page Views: 295 total · 14/month
Shared By: RodrigoB on May 21, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

From the notch you'll see a small ledge that cuts across the (South)East Face.

P1 (70 ft/20m): Starting at the notch climb a short ramp (~15'/5m) before heading up a short dihedral to the ledge. Traverse across the narrow, exposed ledge and belay below the obvious flaring chimney (low 5th).
P2 (~30'/10m): Climbing the flaring chimney to the summit where there is a small tree and some gear options.
Two pitches are recommended despite the length due to the wandering nature of the first pitch.

A single double rope rappel easily reaches the ground. An intermediate rappel could be set up. Be careful of the rope eating snag when you pull the rope.

The route does not see a lot of traffic and has a lot of lichen and is very slippery when wet. It started snowing just before we began climbing and by the end it was to slippery to do much of anything.

Protection

Small rack to 3". No small gear is needed.

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