Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft
FA: Kenneth May, Don Parkin, Howard Twining September 8, 1935
Page Views: 762 total · 24/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on May 20, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

A beautiful, sweeping, and exposed arete on solid & featured rock. I can't say I've done many Cl.4 routes in the Sierra that have old pitons and rap stations on route...

Location

Many options exist for the descent. One could downclimb the route, downclimb the cl.3-4 SE Arete, or descend the cl.2 NE face. The latter was my preferred choice for a C2C winter-ish ascent with lots of snow - made for an epic glissade.

Protection

Solo, or bring a light rack and rope if you aren't comfortable on 4th+/easy 5th class.
jt newgard
San Diego, CA
jt newgard   San Diego, CA
I agree, the class 2 NE face makes for a quick descent off this peak. Although I would say there's about 15 feet of class 3 right below the top, before you hit the sandy NE slopes. We took about 4 hours to climb the NW Arete from Lake 9235, and it only took about 2 hours to get back to our camp at the lake via the NE slopes!

PS. I put a picture of the NE face descent in the photos.

It sure was a long slog from Happy Isles but so sweet to spend time in the backcountry.

PPS. Also, I would have to disagree a bit about the rock quality (judging by immaculate Tuolumne standards of course, haha). There are some hollow sounding flakes here and there, and we found the rock to be a bit grainy in places. Conness and Cathedral have significantly better rock than Clark but I'm splitting hairs there .... Jul 17, 2018
jt newgard
San Diego, CA
jt newgard   San Diego, CA
"I can't say I've done many Cl.4 routes in the Sierra that have old pitons and rap stations on route..."


There are pitons and rap stations all over the Sierra on Class 4 routes!

Devils Crags has manky rap tat and pitons all over the ridge
Mt Humphreys has rap stations on the SW slope + NW face
Bear Creek Spire has a rap station at the summit above Ulrich's Route
North Palisade has rap stations and pitons above the U-Notch

Sometimes I think Class 4 is to mountaineers what 5.9+ is to rock climbers. If an old school hard man climbed it without a rope, it's class 4 regardless of difficulty. HA! Jul 17, 2018