Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Rated Arrrgh!

5.10a R, Trad, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Evan Wisheropp
California > Northwest Calif… > High Bluffs

Description

Why was the pirate nervous about this climb? Because it was Rated Arrrgh!

Rated Arrrgh climbs a crack up through the center of the arch, and meets up with Captain Longbeard near the end. Begin the route by following the first few bolts of No Man's Land. Bring lots of slings. Descend with two raps to the ground with a 60m rope, or climb Gardyloo to walk off.

After cleaning off the loose rock, plenty solid gear placements appeared throughout the climb. It can be made safer by scoping the gear placements on TR first, but regardless, it is quite an adventure where you must be experienced with this rock, best for very experienced trad climbers. Place lots of redundant gear and be safe!

Protection

Draws
MANY 24" slings! (maybe 10)
Three 48" slings.
Micro nuts (offsets very useful)
Nuts
Micro cams (#00-#1 metolius or black to green alien)
Cams .4-2"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rated Arrrgh!
[Hide Photo] Rated Arrrgh!
Not so bad! Best to sew it up in that rock, just to be safe.
[Hide Photo] Not so bad! Best to sew it up in that rock, just to be safe.
Rated Arrrgh!
[Hide Photo] Rated Arrrgh!
FA of Rated Arrrgh
[Hide Photo] FA of Rated Arrrgh