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Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right)

A Farewell to Poodles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Astropoodle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dangerous Poodle, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Easy As Pi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Whom the Poodle Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fusion Without Integrity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Head Over Heals T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mind Blender T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mind Meld TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mind Over Matter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Mind over Splatter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Old Man and the Poodle, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ravens Do Nasty Things To My Bottom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 182 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space Walk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suspect Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 62 total · 3/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on May 19, 2016
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start in the same spot as A Farewell to Poodles, at a point where the hillside drops fairly steeply down to the start of Head Over Heals.

Traverse right along horizontal cracks to the left edge of a ceiling. Make hard and spooky moves up and right using a thin flake to gain the base of the Head Over Heals crack (after the roof portion of that route).

Follow the left leaning crack all the way to the top (Head Over Heals moves right into a different crack at a ceiling). In addition to the face move to gain the crack, there's another difficult move just after Head Over Heals jogs to the right at the ceiling.

The upper cracks on this route are quite fun.

Vogel's JT West guide has Head Over Heals drawn as going up this crack, when in fact almost everyone jogs right and climbs up to the fixed anchor atop P1.

Location

Start in the same spot as A Farewell to Poodles, at a point where the hillside drops fairly steeply down to the start of Head Over Heals.

Protection

Carry a standard JT rack with perhaps extra hand-sized pieces.

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