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Is That Uranus
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British PG13
Avg: 1 from 2
votes
Routes in Middle Marker North (Middle Tier)
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Crystal Shard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Help s On the Way S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Is That Uranus S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Moonstone S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pluto's Playground S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Rum and Coke S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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SLAMAT S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m), Grade V |
| GPS: | 43.88253, -103.46203 |
| FA: | Rusty Lewis and Ted Stymiest, 1998 |
| Page Views: | 889 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Orsag on May 16, 2016 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
Description
This route climbs a slabby, fine-grained, in-leaning, bullet-shaped pillar. Quite a bit of chimneying at the start giving way to pure friction climbing (palm pillar, smear, step and repeat in a steady unbroken sequence) that wanders around the pillar-- angle is pretty low, but the bolting is quite sparse. Weird, runout, a tiny bit spooky, and not wholly pleasant (particularly with some rain during our climb) but memorable and different all the same.
Location
This rather forgotten route starts more or less at the same spot that Rum and Coke (5.10+) does. Anchors at the top of Is That Uranus weren't in good shape (this was a few years back), so we ended up traversing over and rapping off the Pluto's Playground (5.9+)anchors. Took two double-rope rappels, with the second rap from the Make Believe (5.8+) anchors, to get down that way if I am remembering correctly???
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