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Routes in Middle Marker Area

Big Dripper T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Borealis Strut S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Broken Promises T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crystal Shard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deja' Vu Prophecy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Stahl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Equinox S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Help s On the Way S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Is That Uranus S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Jupiter Fly By S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Little Dripper T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Make Believe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Micro-Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mintaka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Moonstone S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orions Belt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Raisins in the Sun T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Roadside Plum T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rum and Coke S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
SLAMAT S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Saturn Boogie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skywalker S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Solo System S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spacedust S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Star Dancer S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weird Water T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft, Grade V
FA: Rusty Lewis and Ted Stymiest, 1998
Page Views: 142 total, 8/month
Shared By: Mark Orsag on May 16, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

This route climbs a slabby, fine-grained, in-leaning, bullet-shaped pillar. Quite a bit of chimneying at the start giving way to pure friction climbing (palm pillar, smear, step and repeat in a steady unbroken sequence) that wanders around the pillar-- angle is pretty low, but the bolting is quite sparse. Weird, runout, a tiny bit spooky, and not wholly pleasant (particularly with some rain during our climb) but memorable and different all the same.

Location

This rather forgotten route starts more or less at the same spot that Rum and Coke (5.10+) does. Anchors at the top of Is That Uranus weren't in good shape (this was a few years back), so we ended up traversing over and rapping off the Pluto's Playground (5.9+)anchors. Took two double-rope rappels, with the second rap from the Make Believe (5.8+) anchors, to get down that way if I am remembering correctly???

Protection

3 bolts with the first quite high off the ground. You'll probably end up doing some chimneying off to the right , if memory serves, side of the pillar against an adjacent formation to get to the first bolt.

Photos

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Started by both climbers approaching/stemming up the left side in my flip flops. Stopped at a little belay ledge where I roped up. Did a little travers on a ledge around the corner where I found the first bolt within reach but was a little scary traversing around on the little ledge. Had a fair amount of rip drag as well as bolts being placed where you definitely need some cord or slings to tr. rapped off the bolts which were a little rusty but fine. Then down climbed/stemmed back to the ground. Climbing wasn't really special and was a little dangerous at the start. Only thing I really liked about the climb is the view at the top is pretty great. I wouldn't suggest this climb to anyone with limited time in the area but not the worst thing I've ever climbed. Not a great lead for inexperienced climbers just because of location of first bolt. Jun 26, 2016