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Routes in Pontok 3

BYOND S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 1200 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Timmy ONeill and James Garrett, 5 May 2016
Page Views: 532 total · 19/month
Shared By: James Garrett on May 12, 2016
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Description

This route is on the far left side of any of the other 2 or 3 existing routes on this immense slab of rock making up the South Face of Pontok 3. Boldly and brilliantly drilled on lead in impeccable style by Timmy, the original idea was to place many more bolts. Running out of power, time, and bolts while forging up the smooth slab, this futuristic "vision" for the line will have to wait for the added protection as we fully intend to return and properly equip it for mass entertainment:)! A great route doesn't mean it has to remain a 5.9 climb for solid 5.11 leaders.

In the meantime, due to the seriousness of the route in its present state, it is named BYOND...The Bacher - Yerian Of Namibia.

AUGUST 2016 UPDATE: The Bacher Yerian of Namibia (now Beyond Plaisir:)) has been retrofitted by James Garrett and Franziska Garrett with many more additional bolts added. It can now be climbed relatively stress free. Still, it may feel run out in some sections for some climbers. This is testimony to Timmy's bold leads when establishing the route a few months back. It probably would have stood unrepeated for many years if it had not been equipped with more protection. This super fun route now holds great promise to become one of Namibia's more popular moderate multi-pitch well protected (Plaisir) routes. Perhaps an oxymoron as climbers in this corner of the world are a bit of a rarity as it is, nevertheless, it is fun climbing!
Though many intermediary belays have been equipped to minimize rope drag, the original number of pitches remains as originally reported for the historical record.

It is possible to climb this route with one 60m rope, yet using a 70m rope or two 60m ropes might be prudent. In the event of retreat, two ropes is best. Can easily be rappelled with one 70m rope ~14 Rappels.

The beginning of BYOND is 50m up and left of the obvious right facing dihedral of the route Sachsenwand (18=5.9), find a faint broken left facing short corner. Start up the featured slab just to the right.

Pitch #1: Find the first bolt about 20m up the 5.7ish slab. mostly straight up trending slightly left to another bolt to where the angle steepens. Pass two more bolts to a two-bolt belay. (Now 14 bolts with two 30m pitches) 5.7+, 60m.

Pitch #2: Straight up past 4 widely spaced bolts to another two-bolt belay. Awesome and consistent slab climbing on great granite. (14 bolts with two 30m pitches) 5.8, 60m.

Pitch #3: Now move up and trend left passing 3 widely spaced bolts aiming for a weakness in the roof at "the corner". A number of medium sized cams can be used to protect surmounting this roof to a flake, then jog again to the left to a nice ledge and two-bolt belay. (12 bolts and 1 25m pitch and 1 35m pitch) 5.8+, 60m.

Pitch #4: Continue trending left until reaching the prominent orange water streak passing 3 bolts to a two-bolt belay. (About 12 bolts and 2 30m pitches) 5.9, 60m.

Pitch #5: Consistently in your face 5.9+ climbing left of and parallel to the orange streak and belay above the "Bulls Horn" appearing feature. A wild pitch with only 3 bolts! (A dozen bolts and two pitches) 5.9+, 60m.

Pitch #6: An every move 5.10a cruxy run out pitch with 3 bolts to a two-bolt belay. (~12 bolts total now) 5.10a, 50m.

Pitch #7: Easier climbing leads (no bolts) to a nice ledge with a two-bolt belay below the summit capstone. (3 bolts now) 5.6, 30m.

Third Class to the spectacular summit off Pontok 3.

Descend by walking off down the west ridge and down the original route gully.

Location

South Face of Pontok 3. Find the start of BYOND 50m up and left of the start of Sachsenwand and yet still on one of the longer aspects of the blankish left side of the wall. Once on route, it is route finding will be obvious.

Protection

Most climbers will be comfortable climbing the entire route with 12-15 Quick Draws. Medium to large size cams are optional. No micro cams or nuts were placed.
All belays are bolted with 1/2 inch x 3.5 inch HLC Hilti bolts or long 12mm Hilti wedge bolts.

Photos

rpc
Portland, OR
rpc   Portland, OR
Looks nice. Hope you guys do return & make this into a moderate and decently protected classic. What little we tried in the area seemed to be either hard or very run-out...not many options for a sub-average weekend wanker (tucked tail & ran). May 16, 2016
Awesome Climb! Great Adventure!
Well bolted! I love pitch 3 with the huge flake and pitch 6 with challenging but fun climb. Thanks!
went up twice in 3 weeks time and seen fresh tracks and chalk on this new line at Spitzkoppe, would love to know who and what they think of the route?
Happy Climbings!! Jul 18, 2017
Richard Ford
Windhoek, NA
Richard Ford   Windhoek, NA
Probably the most enjoyable muti-pitch sport route at Spitzkoppe. Had a blast all the way. Well bolted and great line you found.

We did it with our single 80m rope and managed two pitches at a time. Abseiling anchors well placed and we required only our one rope. Jul 23, 2018

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