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Routes in Expedition Buttress

Four Hits in a Row T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knife Blade Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Mountaineer Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: C. Scales, A. Stevenson
Page Views: 101 total, 5/month
Shared By: Grimpeur on May 12, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up the large corner system on the south-facing wall of the buttress, just left of the main arete (Knife Blade Arete) the splits the two main walls of the buttress. The route was pretty chossy and low angle for the first couple pitches but gets a little cleaner and has better climbing where you're eventually forced into the main dihedral up high for the last pitch.

Location

Find the line of least resistance into the main corner system on the south-facing wall of the Expedition Buttress. This is just climber's left of the Knife Blade Arete, the arete that splits the buttress in half.
Hike down and around into the boulderfield that comes out below the buttress and between it and the creek by the bridge.

Protection

A standard rack, a helmet for sure on this one, maybe a brush if you can't handle a little lichen, but you should probably go back to First Buttress if that's the case....

Photos

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Bill Gattis  
 
I just did this route in late Oct. '17, and although there is some lichen to clean out of the cracks, it is a fine climb. I recommend lots of TCUs, and small tricams as well. Nothing larger than #3 Camalot was needed. Great climbing in between "steps", stout 5.9. Difficult (but not impossible) to do the chimney sections with a pack. Oct 27, 2017