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Trad, 100 ft,
Avg: 2.5 from 2
FA: Marty Karabin
> Central Arizona
> Queen Creek Canyon
> Upper Devils Ca…
> Pancake House
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area
Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at: queencreekclimbing.com/. This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
Start at the bottom of the crack just inside the Pancake House. Chimney up through the roof and into the offwidth. I was able to place a few nuts and a .5 C4 in a pocket, but none of them were great placements until I was high enough up the crack to place the #5. A #6 C4 might protect this route well. Follow the crack to the top and rap off of the anchor for French Toast. The Upper Devil's Canyon guide calls this route a 5.0. I thought it felt like a 5.7, some of that might have been because I climbed most of the route without any confident gear placements though.
The obvious crack on your right when entering the Pancake House. In between Lumberjack and French Toast.
Standard set of nuts, #.4-1 C4's and a #5. A #6 C4 may protect the beginning of the crack well.