Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Marty Karabin
Page Views: 388 total · 8/month
Shared By: Cory Tallman on May 11, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Start at the bottom of the crack just inside the Pancake House. Chimney up through the roof and into the offwidth. I was able to place a few nuts and a .5 C4 in a pocket, but none of them were great placements until I was high enough up the crack to place the #5. A #6 C4 might protect this route well. Follow the crack to the top and rap off of the anchor for French Toast. The Upper Devil's Canyon guide calls this route a 5.0. I thought it felt like a 5.7, some of that might have been because I climbed most of the route without any confident gear placements though.

Location

The obvious crack on your right when entering the Pancake House. In between Lumberjack and French Toast.

Protection

Standard set of nuts, #.4-1 C4's and a #5. A #6 C4 may protect the beginning of the crack well.

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