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Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jimmy G T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jim Erickson, Dave Rickson, Jimmy G.
Page Views: 189 total, 10/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on May 10, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is somewhat off the beaten-path but is worth seeking out. The route starts on a good ledge with a large pine tree at the start. Make some face moves behind the tree to reach a left-leaning diagonal crack; climb that crack until it cuts right, and then head up that to a good ledge. There's a small tree about ten feet back where an anchor can be made.

(The route name and first ascent party were obtained from Steve Levin's excellent guidebook to the canyon.)

Location

An easy way to get to the route is to climb both pitches of Washington Irving. From the cable anchor atop the second pitch, do an easy traverse over to the tree. Another way is to climb both pitches of Chianti or Break on Through, go up and over a ridge, and then scramble down to the tree.

We descended by downclimbing an easy, wide crack from the belay to a large tree with slings. Rappel from that tree down slabs to a good ledge about 20 feet below the start of the route. Scramble back to the top of Washington Irving, and do two rappels to the ground. One might also be able to scramble up slabs from the belay spot, traverse over to the left, and downclimb back to the starting ledge.

Protection

A standard Eldo rack. The protection is much better than it looks from the base of the route. An anchor can be made at a small tree and backed up with a #4 Camalot and a large stopper (other combinations of gear would probably work as well).

Photos

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