All Locations > California > San Francisco B… > Wine Country > Mt St Helena > Far Side > Shute-Mills Area

Forrester's Crack

Name: Forrester's Crack
Rating: 2.3

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Shute-Mills Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	18NY T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	5.8 TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	At Last S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Atlas T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Atlas Shrugged S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Bushy Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Cereal Killer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Chief, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Death to the Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Far Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Far Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Feelin' Your Oats T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Forrester's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Initiation Rite T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Jardinero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Let's Climb Naked S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Livin' on a Prayer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mystery Hole S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Near Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	New Tradition S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pile, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Rite of Passage T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Saviour Heart T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
	Shute-Mills Route S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Something Good S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Step To The Left T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Tradfest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	War Party S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

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Type:	Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA:	Forrest Shute and Wade Mills, early 1960s?
Page Views:	1,861 total · 23/month
Shared By:	Floyd Hayes on May 10, 2016
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Climb a steep wide crack via huge face holds over a slightly overhanging bulge (5.6) and continue up a widening chimney to a thin finger crack (5.7) on the right wall just below the bolted anchor of Saviour Heart, Far Side Chimney and New Tradition.

Although it shares a few holds with Saviour Heart, it is a separate line that predates all sport climbs at Mt. St. Helena. According to Jerry Dodrill, during the first ascent Forrest Shute "took a 50' fall and the rope caught as he hit the ground, landing on his feet. He went right back up and finished the route."