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Jeff Smeared Eileen
5.10a,
TR, 40 ft (12 m),
Avg: 2.7 from 7
votes
FA: 1990’s per Bruce Monroe
New York
> Little Falls
> Moss Island
Access Issue: Permit Not Currently Required
Details
A permit was once required to rock climb at Moss Island, but since 2010, does not appear to be required anymore. There is an issue getting medical vehicles to the island, so be aware. This fact may affect the permit situation in the future.
Description
One of the better slab climbs at Moss Island- a few crimpy and frictiony moves with good rests. Another product of Moss Island convolutions. Climb the face right of Jeff Loves Eileen without using 1. the crack of Jeff Loves Eileen, 2. the arete to the right or 3. any of the ledges that are too nice. Got that all? Enjoy. Easy to do after setting up Jeff Loves Eileen.
The guy who told me about it didn't give it a name- only saw him there once... It isn't in the local guidebook.
Location
Face immediately right of Jeff Loves Eileen
Protection
Top-ropeable off Jeff Love Eileen anchors
[Hide Photo] Jeff Smeared Eileen drawn in Yellow. (Jeff Loves Eileen in Red)