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Routes in (s) Monkey Face

Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Backbone, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spank The Monkey(Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1
West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: Tommy Caldwell - 2003
Page Views: 1,371 total, 70/month
Shared By: Ryan Palo on May 9, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

The extension of Spank the Monkey provides an excellent challenge for anyone who enjoys exciting arete climbing. The route is similar to the bottom in both movement and bolting. Instead of climbing through easy terrain runout, you climb an overhanging, relentless, and very sharp arete runout. There are 3 bolts protecting the entire upper section. Like the bottom, you'll have a bolt at the hardest parts, but you'll be expected to climb 5.12 far above your last bolt.

With that said, Full Spank has some of the best arete movement around. It climbs through flawless welded purple tuff, featuring every arete trick in the book.

Protection

Use long slings on the two upper bolts. This puts the draw over the arete, rather than your rope.

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