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Shirley You Can't Be Serious

5.12+, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: Chris Tirrell
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Lower Town Wall > (D) Narrow Arrow & fu…

Description

This route adds an easier start and a hard variation finish to the classic pitch "Shirley" at the LTW.

First clip a bolt and climb up into the corner system right of Shirley. When that corner ends place a thin piece or two and step left to rejoin Shirley. This start is approximately 10+.

Next climb Shirley into the hand-jam pod below the crux stemming on that route. Reach left and clip a bolt out on the arete, then down-climb until both hands are on the jug flake on the left side of the Shirley pillar. From here, climb up and left into the oblique dihedral past two more bolts, encountering two distinct boulder problems on the way to the NAD ledge.

I found this route to be a bit harder than its neighbor, Narrow Arrow Direct, but not as hard as the Narrow Arrow Overhang. While the crux section is short the climbing is powerful and sustained with good movement and the rig makes a nice addition to the hard climbing at the wall.

Location

Start in the corner system right of Shirley, finish on the NAD ledge.

Protection

4 bolts plus gear for Shirley. 2-bolt anchor with chain on top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Indeed.
[Hide Photo] Indeed.
Topo showing the upper boulder problems of Shirley You Can't Be Serious.
[Hide Photo] Topo showing the upper boulder problems of Shirley You Can't Be Serious.
Route viewed from the base.
[Hide Photo] Route viewed from the base.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Stig gles
Index
 
[Hide Comment] pretty hard crux off of a tiny crimp. it’s def possible to do this route without downclimbing back to the flake thing. just clip the bolt and head left with foot on the flake. Sep 25, 2021
Ben Gilkison
Leavenworth, WA
[Hide Comment] I couldn't figure this one out the only time I TR'd on it a few years ago. Have 5' folks sent it? Dec 23, 2022
Ol Toby
CA
  5.12+
[Hide Comment] Ben, I'm 5'6" and the crux moves had me pretty stretched out. Mike Patz tried it several times before he left town and also had some difficulty with the crux. I did watch Nathan Hadley and Brittany Goris hike the moves though. Probably a bit harder the shorter you are. Jan 4, 2023