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Routes in 3 - Checkerboard

Checker Bored S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Checker Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Checkered Past T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Queen of Kings S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: JSt, EFR
Page Views: 77 total · 4/month
Shared By: Nick Henscheid on May 7, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This is a mostly gear-protected route on the left side of the Checkerboard wall. While the climbing is relatively easy, the gear at the crux seemed pretty dicey to me, and the rock quality is not great in places (a common theme at Chessmen). I suppose you could always bail onto Queen of Kings if you get spooked, but I don't recommend for novice trad leaders. I'm giving it PG13 because if the gear blew at the crux you'd have a really bad day.

Location

Just to the left of the fully bolted "Checkered Bored" (5.9) is a single bolt. This is the start of Checkered Past. It follows shallow cracks up to a left-facing corner.

Protection

One bolt at start, then your standard Lemmon rack should do just fine. Keep a #1 Camalot for a flaring pod at the crux (you might be able to get creative with small nuts).

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