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Routes in Murphy's Dome South Face

Beer is Better T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Streak Through Overlap S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bottom Feeder S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chris and Pete's Wake Up Call T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crimes Against Rock (formerly entered as Sideways Smile) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hey, Dude S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Irish Red S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
King and Eye, The TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Murphy's Law S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Murphy's Stout S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pork Meadows S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slim Chance S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stitch of Time T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Water Witch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Where's My Car? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: TR: Jay Eggleston, 5-6-16
Page Views: 194 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on May 6, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is certainly not the best route on the rock, but, if you are crazy enough to bring big gear to this rock, it is something to do. Most of the way your feet are on the slab and you only use the crack for your hands. You can lieback much of the crack, but in the best 10' of the climb, you can use hand jams to ascend. Near the edge of the crack the rock is quite friable. I broke much of the loose stuff off, but more remains. Your biggest piece will be the first you place which means your second will carry it up most of the climb. If you only have as big as a #6, it will be your first piece. It is a little risky getting up to where it can be used. My next piece was a #5. The best part of the climb is the short hand crack section about halfway up. There is a small sticker bush in the way up higher, but the climbing is easier here. You can belay from the anchors on Irish Red if you wish to do two pitches, or you can clip its anchors for pro.

Above, you follow a wide crack to the right which leads to the last two bolts on Murphy's Law. This crack takes a #6 and a #5, so it is good to do the climb in two pitches. The hardest parts are right at the beginning and at the last two bolts on Murphy's Law. Let me know if I did not have the first ascent, but I probably do.

Location

This is the wide crack between Irish Red and Murphy's Law. The start is near a small tree just to the left of the 1st bolt on Murphy's Law. You descend from the anchors on Murphy's Law.

Protection

Standard rack, mainly cams - 2 #5 Camalots (only 1 needed if done as two pitches), 2 #6 Camalots, and a blue Big Bro or Valley Giant. There is a bolt anchor midway and at the top.
rob bauer
Golden, CO
  5.9-
rob bauer   Golden, CO
  5.9-
Maybe a bomb rating is tough, but the edge of the crack is quite loose, and it seemed like a 3-4 foot section is about to fall off. I was able to solo up the slab without touching the choss, which wasn't bad. I guess then I'd suggest skipping the big stuff and toproping from the anchors on either side. Jul 30, 2017