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No Doze

5.10a PG13, Trad, 25 ft (8 m),  Avg: 0 from 0 votes
FA: Bret and Stuart Ruckman, 1985
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Narcolepsy Area


Another abandoned line at an over-populated area, No Doze is the quarter inch seam up the face on top of the Narcolepsy Buttress. Not much to describe, this line is short and sweet. A burly old 5.10. Bring thick skin and thin gear.


Sitting about 200 feet above Narcolepsy Proper, get here by following the top-rope trail up and left of Ethiopian Kid . Continue up the wash/trail until you find a mossy set of steps that zig back on top of the buttress. Follow this out and around until the crag becomes visible. Leave your pack on the ridge and don't trip getting to the base.


A small, light rack of stoppers and cams up to 1 inch, draws and a few runners. I'd recommend fashioning an anchor on the ground for yourself and the belayer, crater in the wrong place and you might get owned.