Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Lost But Not Forgotten

5.7, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 1.6 from 17 votes
FA: Hobo Spiders and or The Wasatch Mountain Club
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Challenge Buttress > E Face

Description

A right-facing crack system over surprisingly solid rock. Not much to look at, this climb offers decent gear and nice rests with its crux being a high, final jaunt up the face to the anchors. Follow the obvious crack system left of Coral Bells Arete, move up and slightly left towards a bush. Keep right of the bush, heading towards obvious landmarks and break right and up the face to the upper Moral Bell's anchor.

The approximate line was surely done many moons ago, as nearly nothing was left untouched at the ole' Challenge Area. I can only speculate the original line continued to the top of the buttress over broken, vegetated, crumbly choss? The addition of the Moral Bells anchor makes for an obvious, clean escape over solid rock and a nice way to finish.

Location

This line is just left of Coral Bells arete. It starts below the right-facing undercling crack and continues up the weakness.

Protection

A single rack of nuts and cams up to 4 inches. Draws and slings are handy.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Proper route. Stay on the crack.
[Hide Photo] Proper route. Stay on the crack.
Near the top clean face.
[Hide Photo] Near the top clean face.
Wrong move! Trying to pop over the right-facing crack.
[Hide Photo] Wrong move! Trying to pop over the right-facing crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

zoso
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Several flexy pins inspire confidence [wink] but there's gear to back them up. May 7, 2020
Tristan Mayfield
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Bring long slings to avoid terrible rope drag. I didn't think the route was great, but hey, it's there!
I chose to finish on the upper anchor instead of going to the top over dubious rock. Aug 16, 2021
Nathan Fisher
West Bountiful
  5.8- R
[Hide Comment] Found no pins on this route; however there was one far to the left, but not so left as to be on Mega. I personally liked this route, as it was fairly clean (I did clean 4 or so baseball sized chunks), and consistent. The finish up top, was the best part, as it was solid clean and glassy with those wonderful horizontal cracks to work with. However, that part IS short.

Now, maybe my rack was light (which if anybody who has climbed with me can laugh now), but the upper half was a bit runout. Also, once Moral Bell's starts, the bolts (and anchors from Coral Bell's) are within arm's reach, so don't clip them to experience the enjoyment. I did use 2 3-foot runners up top. Sep 5, 2025