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Routes in Cabezon Peak

Mad Hatter's Tea Party T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
SE Gully (Standard Route) T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: James Olsen and Fritz Devendorf May 17, 2006
Page Views: 181 total, 9/month
Shared By: James Olsen on May 3, 2016
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Pitch 1, Climb on the small fluted rock, following the grain of the fluting. The ledge before the belay ledge is full of cactus. Belay at the ledge above it. You will fully run out a 60 meter rope getting to the belay spot.

Pitch 2, Go diagonally upward to the left over blocky boulders and ledges to a ledge visible from a distance on the skyline buttress. There is room here for three or four people.

Pitch 3, This is the fun pitch. In front of you is a very wide (8'or so) very shallow chimney climb the textured back of the chimney exiting right about halfway up and continue upward among the giant mushroom shaped rock extrusions (chicken heads on steroids). Set belay in an alcove ledge. Only tricams work here in odd shaped pockets.

Pitch 4, Continue up leftward on an easy partial pitch to the top.

Descend on third class route on opposite side of the volcanic neck, being careful not to get off route. At one spot part way down it is difficult to tell whether to go left or right. Go right.

Location

Start on the south side of Cabezon about 40' west of the end of the barbed wire fence. Avoid the cactus.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 Camelot and #1 to #3 tricams.

Photos

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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
A few 5th class routes are on the S-Side of Cabezon, info:
See also SE Gully (Standard Route) page, some info in the MP forum and rockclimbing.com (links below)

mountainproject.com/v/cabez…
rockclimbing.com/routes/Nor… May 4, 2016